Choosing Acceptance
When History and Culture Clash
On New Year’s day I watched the inauguration ceremony in New York City. Not only was I moved by the positive energy that vibrated from each human being present but also by the representation of different religions and cultures. By the end of the ceremony, dancing in my living room to the music of the Punjabi artist Babbullicious, I was ready to buy a ticket for a quick visit to New York.
After calming my impulsive monkey brain, I sat down on the couch with the kitties to organize the rest of my week. I remembered that January 2nd is a bank holiday in Granada. Spanish winter holidays are prolonged by the celebration of the Epiphany on the 6th of January, but in Granada we get a bonus one.
Every January 2nd, the celebration of “La Toma” takes place in the plaza of the city hall in Granada. January 2nd symbolizes a historical moment for Granada and for the entire country of Spain. January 2nd, 1492 marks the day that Boabdil, the last Moorish King of Granada, handed the keys of the city to the Catholic Monarchs Isabel and Fernando. A couple days later, after Boabdil had gone into exile, they entered the city through the Elvira Gate and made their way up to the palaces and compound of the Alhambra. This moment in history marked the end of the last Moorish dynasty on the Iberian Peninsula and also the unification of Spain as a country. A few months later on March 31st the Alhambra Decree was passed demanding the expulsion of all practicing Jews from the country. They were given 3 months to leave or convert, thus ending over 1500 years of Jewish presence in this land. There are a lot of layers here and I am not writing a history lecture today. I will add more in other articles.
To commemorate this yearly act they bring in La Legión1 to the city of Granada. Francisco Franco was the founding deputy commander of La Legión in 1920 and they served an important role in the Spanish Civil War serving the Nationalist side. Since then, they have been deployed to different areas such as Bosnia, Iraq and Afghanistan. Presently they participate mostly in NATO peace-keeping missions. They are also known for their extraordinary band, playing its well known anthem and marches.
The commemoration acts for the day of “La Toma” includes a parade, Holy Mass, and visitation of the tombs of the Catholic Monarchs in the Royal Chapel. In all of my years living in Granada I had never attended this celebration.
If I am in Granada on the 2nd of January, I have always attended the counter celebration of cultures which is dedicated to the “convivencia”2 of all people. In the counter celebration that is held there is a reading of the manifest about coexistence and a tribute to Mariana Pineda, a 19th century heroine who fought for liberal rights.
If we look back on history appropriately we will easily see that the culture we enjoy today is thanks to the different civilizations that have lived on and contributed to the Iberian Peninsula.
However, a few years ago I miscalculated the time going on a walk up to the Alhambra and found myself caught smack in the middle of this “Toma” celebration. I arrived to our main avenue just in time to see La Legión departing the gates of the Royal Chapel playing its anthem surrounded by Granaínos3 decked out in their Sunday best.
Once the crowds dispersed I was able to continue on with my original plan for the afternoon which was to make it up to the Alhambra. It was a gorgeous sunny day and on January 2nd they open the doors to the alter in the Gate of Justice, the main gate of the Alhambra. It is only opened once a year for a few hours and I had never made it up until that day. The altar was constructed in 1588 and was placed where the first Catholic mass was supposedly held in the Alhambra. On the upper and lower sides we find images of Saint Francis, Michael the Archangel, Isabel and Fernando. In the center we find an image of the Virgin Mary and below her an image of St.James represented as a warrior in the Battle of Clavijo. The battle of Clavijo was a mythical battle between the Christians and the Moors in the area of La Rioja.
On this day each year the entrance to the Alcazaba (fortress) of the Alhambra is free for those who want to climb up to touch the bell in the highest tower, La Torre de la Vela. The legend here says that all who touch the bell three times will be assured to find true love during the coming year.
I chose to take advantage of the free entrance to the Alcazaba and climb up a couple of towers to enjoy the unique perspective of the city. The line was growing for people wanting to touch the bell and in the highest tower so I just enjoyed the sunshine and the fantastic views of two of my old neighborhoods. I later found out that the line was longer than usual because one of the bell ropes had broken and needed to be mended, oops!
As I walked back down into the city I found the normal holiday atmosphere that fills the streets of Granada at this time of year. Families and tourists wandering about and flooding the outdoor terraces to enjoy some free tapas and lunch. That day I also noticed some rolled up flags leaning against the tables, obviously used for the celebration.
The city center during the holidays can be quite full, especially with sunny weather. This is when it is best to visit neighborhoods like my own that provide a more relaxed atmosphere and some of the best tapas. That day I chose to contemplate my morning while enjoying one of the best. Our favorite bar, La Noticia, used to be on the corner near our house. I am sad to say it closed a year ago. The roasted ham on a rotisserie served with tiny pickles and bread was fantastic. Ham, like all pork products, are an important subject when we talk about the expulsion of the Muslims and Jewish people from Spain. In a couple weeks I will write about another important holiday here in Granada and elaborate on this topic!
Until then, Happy New Year. May it be one filled with diversity and inclusion.
Thank you for walking with me on this Camino of life. I am truly grateful for your presence, especially during this holiday season where it has been difficult for me to find my voice.
You can watch my YouTube video of the Alhambra during the pandemic. At the end of the video I walk through the gate of justice and show the closed altar. It is a video for relaxation. A rare moment of silence in the gardens of the Alhambra where you can actually hear the sound of the fountains.
La Legión - an elite prestigious unit of the Spanish army
Convivencia - coexistence. It has a deeper meaning of acceptance, sharing life and not just space together.
People from Granada written in the local way.
Stunning how this balances honoring the Toma's historical weight with advocating for convivencia. The way the author walks through both celebrations without flattening either shows real courage, I think. I've struggled withhow to engage historical events that mean different things to different communities, and seeing someone just witness both without needing to resolve the tension feels instructive. That final image of jamón asado ties it all togehter perfectly.
MG, I appreciate another look back from you to include historical context.
I also see the importance of jamon in Spain once again. Talk about ubiquitous, huh?
Tread carefully on the political side. It's fraught with landmines.
Gracias, senora.